Jaisalmer- A multi-sensory experience- “Everybody’s hustling.”

One of the youngest people performing/hustling at the fort. Amazing really; she performs and hopes that people will pay for their entertainment. There was an older man (maybe her dad) passing the plate so to speak. How i feel about it all is quite a balancing act. People need to survive and yet i couldn't help but put my own sensibility on top of it- is this exploitative?


So one day, we got off the train in Jaismaler (the Golden City) founded by Rawai Jaisal in the 1100’s. I had no idea what to expect when the guide said that we would a be visiting a functioning fort where 5000 people lived and lots more work. (The fort is huge and made of all sandstone, thus the “golden” part.)


The fort by day



The Fort at night

OMG! it was wild; but no picture that I can show you will do it justice. This was a place that could only be known thru the 5 senses- the chaos! the cacophony! it wasn’t just the sights and there was a lot to see, it was about the sounds, the smell, the touch, the feel, the heat, the palate.

First of all, there were so many cows hanging out in this place, I found myself grateful that I am in a country that not only worships the cow but believes in very strong spices--the smell of curry kind of offsets the smell of dung. Ooh and watch where you are stepping/living? (whoa, that was close). We saw small homes where people live behind all the madeness and there were ittle restaurants of every cuisine on top of the many merchant stalls.






There were shops of clothes hanging everywhere, purses, jewelry, blankets, vegetables, shoes, flowers, wall hangings every 5 steps, throughout the courtyards and in every narrow and curved alley. Okay now add to that motorcyles, bikes and cars running up and down the bricked passages that seemed to meander in no particular fashion. Occassionally i would just push my back against the wall and let the motorcycle and the cow, oh and the stray dog or goat pass. (And when i say "stray" let's be clear, the Hindus love their cows and the pigeons, but the dog is clearly not man's best friend here).












Okay now add to all that, as you are walking up this fort/city, every step you take, there is someone from age maybe 5 to 60 beckonning for your attention, damn, even escorting you for many of those steps, trying to wear you down so that you will buy their particular item, an item that 20 other people are selling two "fort" blocks down. I mean these folks are hustling! I admire and at the same time am sometimes saddened by the whole hustling, bargaining, begging scene.

There was an amazing Jain temple that I managed to fit in and these amazing houses called Havelis- where the Jain, who were merchants, lived. They appear to have been living the good life- the exterior and interiors are amazingly intricate and opulent. So I did learned a little something, but basically I was at the bizarre bazaar having my senses fully engaged-- my purse too.